Been a follower and admirer for a while so just joined.(be gentle).I’ve a 16 month old hermann.Ive done a lot research but to no avail.What doesn’t seem right is when his awake eats his food then back off to his hide.This lasts at most an half an hour every day.Ive tried adjusting temps,light etc.I know baby’s sleep a lot but this’s doesn’t seem right.His in a large tortoise table with a Arcadia D3 basking lamp.
Temps under lamp are 30 to 32 checked with temperature gun.23c at the cool end.
Thks.
Hermann help please
Re: Hermann help please
Hi Reggie and welcome to The Tortoise Table,
Well, it sounds to me like you've got a good set-up, so I'm not sure why he is hiding away most of the day, but at 16 months he should be more active. Most tortoises are active for a good part of the morning, then often have a nice snooze in the middle of the day, and then back out again. Your temperatures sound fine too.
How long have you had him, how old was he when you got him, and did you buy him from a pet shop or a private breeder? Could you give us a rough idea of his diet? Sorry to ask so many questions, but there are so many possible reasons for this behaviour that we need to eliminate various things. Also, could you possibly post a photo of his set-up? Sometimes it only takes a slight tweak to make a difference. You will need to reduce the photo in size in order to post, and if you have any trouble then just send it to me -- nina@thetortoisetable.org.uk -- and I'll post if for you on this thread.
Nina.
Well, it sounds to me like you've got a good set-up, so I'm not sure why he is hiding away most of the day, but at 16 months he should be more active. Most tortoises are active for a good part of the morning, then often have a nice snooze in the middle of the day, and then back out again. Your temperatures sound fine too.
How long have you had him, how old was he when you got him, and did you buy him from a pet shop or a private breeder? Could you give us a rough idea of his diet? Sorry to ask so many questions, but there are so many possible reasons for this behaviour that we need to eliminate various things. Also, could you possibly post a photo of his set-up? Sometimes it only takes a slight tweak to make a difference. You will need to reduce the photo in size in order to post, and if you have any trouble then just send it to me -- nina@thetortoisetable.org.uk -- and I'll post if for you on this thread.
Nina.
Re: Hermann help please
Hi Reggie, and welcome from me..
In addition to what Nina has said it could also be the temperatures dropping now and he is trying to wind himself down and a good reason for sending photos of the setup.
We’ll get it sorted, don’t worry.
Lin
In addition to what Nina has said it could also be the temperatures dropping now and he is trying to wind himself down and a good reason for sending photos of the setup.
We’ll get it sorted, don’t worry.
Lin
Re: Hermann help please
Hi,I got him from a shop in may this year.He seems(Dave) healthy enough.His been putting on weight about 1-3 grams a month.A mixed diet of mixed weeds from my garden.pellets about twice a week.also kale and store salad.I add calcium power about twice a week.I also bath him most days.I should add when I got I was mis-sold a Vivaruim.So the last two weeks his been in the tortoise table which I thought would cure things Afer some research mainly here I thought the problem was the Vivaruim..
His behaviour was the same in Vivaruim so l had high hopes I will try to add photos.
Many Thks
His behaviour was the same in Vivaruim so l had high hopes I will try to add photos.
Many Thks
Re: Hermann help please
Hi Reggie,
It sounds like you are doing everything right, and you were definitely right to switch to a tortoise table from that vivarium. Vivs can be good homes for snakes and lizards, but they are very bad for tortoises.
So am I right in thinking that he has exhibited this behaviour (eating in the morning and then going back to bed for the whole day) since you got him (so it's not just the approach of autumn and the shorter days that has triggered this)? I will look forward to seeing photos of your set-up, but from what you said it seems OK.
I am wondering now if he might have worms. It's very common and easily treated, and we can give you a link to a site who will test a sample of poo for you (they send you a container, etc.). A light load of worms is no problem for a tortoise, but a heavy load can cause lethargy and needs to be treated with Panacur or a similar medicine. We know of someone who has recently acquired a tortoise that is just under a year old from a pet shop, and he has been very lethargic and (unlike your tortoise), also didn't have much appetite. She had him tested and he had a very large load of worms, and after treatment he is fine. Let's look at your set-up first though, and then if you are interested I can send you a link for the worm testing.
Also, do you have a vet who specialises in 'exotics' (birds, reptiles, etc.)? Ordinary vets aren't much good for tortoises, as they have little training in reptiles, but many vets do extra courses and specialise and we have a list on our website of recommended vets, and if you can't find one near you, let me know and we'll see if we can find one. https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tor ... s-by-area/
Nina
It sounds like you are doing everything right, and you were definitely right to switch to a tortoise table from that vivarium. Vivs can be good homes for snakes and lizards, but they are very bad for tortoises.
So am I right in thinking that he has exhibited this behaviour (eating in the morning and then going back to bed for the whole day) since you got him (so it's not just the approach of autumn and the shorter days that has triggered this)? I will look forward to seeing photos of your set-up, but from what you said it seems OK.
I am wondering now if he might have worms. It's very common and easily treated, and we can give you a link to a site who will test a sample of poo for you (they send you a container, etc.). A light load of worms is no problem for a tortoise, but a heavy load can cause lethargy and needs to be treated with Panacur or a similar medicine. We know of someone who has recently acquired a tortoise that is just under a year old from a pet shop, and he has been very lethargic and (unlike your tortoise), also didn't have much appetite. She had him tested and he had a very large load of worms, and after treatment he is fine. Let's look at your set-up first though, and then if you are interested I can send you a link for the worm testing.
Also, do you have a vet who specialises in 'exotics' (birds, reptiles, etc.)? Ordinary vets aren't much good for tortoises, as they have little training in reptiles, but many vets do extra courses and specialise and we have a list on our website of recommended vets, and if you can't find one near you, let me know and we'll see if we can find one. https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tor ... s-by-area/
Nina
Re: Hermann help please
I’ve sent photos of the set up.His behaviour has always been the same.When I got him the shop said he is due to be wormed.So l brought the appropriate worming powder and added it to his bath.I did receive the certificate and his microchiped .Ive tried to do everything by the book I’am just frustrated what to do next.
Thks.
Thks.
Re: Hermann help please
Here are the photos (see below) of Reggie's table, which is a lovely set-up, and only needs the hemp substrate changed to a soil-based one (we've already discussed that by email). You've already mentioned the temperatures (which seem fine), and do remember that on a cold day you might have to lower the lamp a little in order to get the right temperature), and the plants, etc. in the table and the other 'furniture' look good. When we had warmer weather (those few days of warm temperatures) did you try putting him outdoors in the sunshine (they do love being outdoors and the light levels there are higher)?
I'm so sorry that the shop has not given you the best advice and you are absolutely right to feel frustrated. Was it the same shop that sold you a vivarium and hemp substrate? I must say that it was very good of you to change the viv for a tortoise table, and I hope the shop refunded your money, because I know how expensive vivarium set-ups are.
Regarding the worming powder. The main wormer that people use is Panacur (which contains Fenbendazole). I'm not really familiar with these powders (it is usually in a liquid form or paste), but I looked one up (it was Cloverleaf Absolute worming powder, but nowhere did it say what the ingredients were). I've since looked it up elsewhere, and it seems to contain Flubendazole, which is absolutely fine, but it doesn't say what the concentration is. Do you still have that worming powder, or can you remember what it was called? There are several products like Ivermectin and Albendazole which are fine for worming dogs and cats but can be lethal to tortoises.
I'm afraid putting a powder in the bath will not be very effective, as the wormer needs to get into the intestinal tract to kill the worms, and that would mean the tortoise having to drink quite a lot of water with the dissolved powder in it (which is unlikely). Usually a wormer is given on food or injected directly into the mouth, and it will kill existing worms that are in the tortoise, but not the eggs, so often a second dose is required a fortnight later.
Also, it is absolutely not recommended that you worm a tortoise every three months (especially a small one like yours). Many people worm a tortoise once a year, but the wormer does upset the natural gut flora, and personally I don't believe in worming a tortoise unless it needs it. Most vets now believe that a very light load of worms is actually beneficial to a tortoise, but a heavy load must be treated, and to determine that a sample of poo must be analysed under a microscope for worm eggs.
The place where you can send a sample off to be tested is called RCVS (or Parasitevet), and here is a link to their page of worm testing kits -- I think the silver level one would be fine for you https://www.parasitevet.co.uk/store/Reptiles-c34596934 You could also have a sample tested at your own vet (sometimes they test them there and sometimes they send them off for testing), but that might me more expensive -- not sure.
Sorry this is so long! Please don't despair -- we hear from lots of people who have similar problems with their tortoises, and we can almost always work through it and get those tortoises back to happy healthy animals who love to explore and are a joy to keep.
Nina
[attachment=0]m_Reggie's enclosure 4.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]m_Reggie's enclosure 3.jpg[/attachment][attachment=2]m_Reggie's enclosure 2.jpg[/attachment][attachment=3]m_Reggie's enclosure 1.jpg[/attachment]
I'm so sorry that the shop has not given you the best advice and you are absolutely right to feel frustrated. Was it the same shop that sold you a vivarium and hemp substrate? I must say that it was very good of you to change the viv for a tortoise table, and I hope the shop refunded your money, because I know how expensive vivarium set-ups are.
Regarding the worming powder. The main wormer that people use is Panacur (which contains Fenbendazole). I'm not really familiar with these powders (it is usually in a liquid form or paste), but I looked one up (it was Cloverleaf Absolute worming powder, but nowhere did it say what the ingredients were). I've since looked it up elsewhere, and it seems to contain Flubendazole, which is absolutely fine, but it doesn't say what the concentration is. Do you still have that worming powder, or can you remember what it was called? There are several products like Ivermectin and Albendazole which are fine for worming dogs and cats but can be lethal to tortoises.
I'm afraid putting a powder in the bath will not be very effective, as the wormer needs to get into the intestinal tract to kill the worms, and that would mean the tortoise having to drink quite a lot of water with the dissolved powder in it (which is unlikely). Usually a wormer is given on food or injected directly into the mouth, and it will kill existing worms that are in the tortoise, but not the eggs, so often a second dose is required a fortnight later.
Also, it is absolutely not recommended that you worm a tortoise every three months (especially a small one like yours). Many people worm a tortoise once a year, but the wormer does upset the natural gut flora, and personally I don't believe in worming a tortoise unless it needs it. Most vets now believe that a very light load of worms is actually beneficial to a tortoise, but a heavy load must be treated, and to determine that a sample of poo must be analysed under a microscope for worm eggs.
The place where you can send a sample off to be tested is called RCVS (or Parasitevet), and here is a link to their page of worm testing kits -- I think the silver level one would be fine for you https://www.parasitevet.co.uk/store/Reptiles-c34596934 You could also have a sample tested at your own vet (sometimes they test them there and sometimes they send them off for testing), but that might me more expensive -- not sure.
Sorry this is so long! Please don't despair -- we hear from lots of people who have similar problems with their tortoises, and we can almost always work through it and get those tortoises back to happy healthy animals who love to explore and are a joy to keep.
Nina
[attachment=0]m_Reggie's enclosure 4.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]m_Reggie's enclosure 3.jpg[/attachment][attachment=2]m_Reggie's enclosure 2.jpg[/attachment][attachment=3]m_Reggie's enclosure 1.jpg[/attachment]
- Attachments
-
-
-
-
Re: Hermann help please
Thks for the great info.The worming powder I’ve got is called CLOVERLEAF which supposedly is just for tortoises .As the first dose in the bath was most probably ineffective shall i worm him again by adding some to his food?.Regarding outside I’ve had him out in the run on hot days ,unfortunately eats his food then back to the runs hide.
Thks.
Thks.
Re: Hermann help please
That is interesting that you had him out on hot days, and he still went straight back to his hide. Don't worry -- we'll get to the bottom of this.
I wouldn't worm Dave again without knowing that he has worms, and also he is very small, so the size of the dose is important, as it varies depending on his weight. We don't even know if he has worms, and I think a test first to determine if he has worms should be done before giving him anything that is going to upset the natural gut flora in his stomach. Can you tell me how much he weighs?
I'm going to ask my colleague, Lin, to come in on this, in case she has any ideas.
Nina
I wouldn't worm Dave again without knowing that he has worms, and also he is very small, so the size of the dose is important, as it varies depending on his weight. We don't even know if he has worms, and I think a test first to determine if he has worms should be done before giving him anything that is going to upset the natural gut flora in his stomach. Can you tell me how much he weighs?
I'm going to ask my colleague, Lin, to come in on this, in case she has any ideas.
Nina
Re: Hermann help please
He weighs 46 grams.His putting on 1 to 3 grams a month.I bathed him this morning and he ate food and off to his hide.This was all done within a half hour.Theirs two hides one at cool end and the other at the warm end he will use either which make me think it’s not the temperature.
Thks.
Thks.
Re: Hermann help please
46g is maybe a little light for 16 months, but tortoises should grow slowly, and he's putting on exactly the right amount each month so there is no problem there. I agree that if he uses the hides at both ends then that makes temperature less likely to be a problem.
Here is the photo of Dave that you just sent me -- and he is a very handsome little chap. I've spoken to Lin and she has to go out for a while but will have a look in when she's back. Don't worry, we'll get to the bottom of this, but please don't try to worm him again before we know if he needs worming. Cloverleaf is the one I looked up that I mentioned in my post above, and it contains Flubendazole, which is fine, but dosage is very important in worming and he is tiny, so I would wait until you get a sample analysed before you try any more worming.
Do you have a good vet? Can you give me a rough idea of where you live (not the address, just the town or area), so that we can see if there is a good reptile vet near you?
Nina
[attachment=0]m_Reggie's Dave.jpg[/attachment]
Here is the photo of Dave that you just sent me -- and he is a very handsome little chap. I've spoken to Lin and she has to go out for a while but will have a look in when she's back. Don't worry, we'll get to the bottom of this, but please don't try to worm him again before we know if he needs worming. Cloverleaf is the one I looked up that I mentioned in my post above, and it contains Flubendazole, which is fine, but dosage is very important in worming and he is tiny, so I would wait until you get a sample analysed before you try any more worming.
Do you have a good vet? Can you give me a rough idea of where you live (not the address, just the town or area), so that we can see if there is a good reptile vet near you?
Nina
[attachment=0]m_Reggie's Dave.jpg[/attachment]
- Attachments
-
Re: Hermann help please
I’am based in East Hertfordshire.I did notice there’s a vet Saffron Warden which is on your list.I wanted use a vet as a last resort.I still have a feeling it’s a behaviour problem maybe I wlll be wrong.
Thks.
Thks.
Re: Hermann help please
There is usually a tangible reason for altered behaviour, so we do need to find out why he is behaving this way, and it won't just be that he is naughty or lazy -- there will be some definite reason why he isn't full of energy and exploring his table for most of the day.
Re the vets. We always recommend ringing a vet from our list before making an appointment, because vets do change practices, so regarding the vet in Saffron Walden, I just rang them and they no longer have an exotics specialist (these things change and they don't notify us, which is why it's always good to check), and we will delete them from our list. They said they now refer their customers to a Vets4Pets in Newmarket, and I rang them and they do have an exotics specialist, and the receptionist there said that they would email me his name, but I'm thinking that maybe Newmarket is quite far away from where you are -- is that right?
Nina
Re the vets. We always recommend ringing a vet from our list before making an appointment, because vets do change practices, so regarding the vet in Saffron Walden, I just rang them and they no longer have an exotics specialist (these things change and they don't notify us, which is why it's always good to check), and we will delete them from our list. They said they now refer their customers to a Vets4Pets in Newmarket, and I rang them and they do have an exotics specialist, and the receptionist there said that they would email me his name, but I'm thinking that maybe Newmarket is quite far away from where you are -- is that right?
Nina
Re: Hermann help please
Thks for time and help.Yes Newmarket is quite a way to go,but not impossible I suppose.
Re: Hermann help please
There is a couple of things you could try, to make your little tortoise more active.
1, remove the hide at the warmer end of the enclosure, as this is probably making him a nice little warm hide, why would he want to move out of that. It like trying to get a teenager out of a nice warm bed on a cold winters day.
2, don't feed him for just one day and see if he becomes more active. At this small size it's hard not to over feed them. If over fed they tend to sleep it off for the day.
I have a Herman's tortoise that is around 15 years old. When I watch her in the garden, she is very active after around an hour of warming up under the hot morning sun, then she will go exploring and then have something to eat and then go back to her cold frame for a rest for most of the day. Once the late afternoon comes, and when it's not as hot, then she will go and repeat the same cycle as the morning, but without the warm up. I would say that her activities and feeding is about 4 to 5 hours a day in total, but she is very healthy and extremely strong and a very heavy.
Don't worry about moving the hide from the warm end, as the tortoise will go and bask under the lamp as needed. These animals don't need to sit near a heat source all day long. But the heat and light source must remain on for the length of the day, so the animal can make their own choices when needed.
1, remove the hide at the warmer end of the enclosure, as this is probably making him a nice little warm hide, why would he want to move out of that. It like trying to get a teenager out of a nice warm bed on a cold winters day.
2, don't feed him for just one day and see if he becomes more active. At this small size it's hard not to over feed them. If over fed they tend to sleep it off for the day.
I have a Herman's tortoise that is around 15 years old. When I watch her in the garden, she is very active after around an hour of warming up under the hot morning sun, then she will go exploring and then have something to eat and then go back to her cold frame for a rest for most of the day. Once the late afternoon comes, and when it's not as hot, then she will go and repeat the same cycle as the morning, but without the warm up. I would say that her activities and feeding is about 4 to 5 hours a day in total, but she is very healthy and extremely strong and a very heavy.
Don't worry about moving the hide from the warm end, as the tortoise will go and bask under the lamp as needed. These animals don't need to sit near a heat source all day long. But the heat and light source must remain on for the length of the day, so the animal can make their own choices when needed.
Re: Hermann help please
Thks for the tips.I will try anything at the moment.The feeding tip sounds good I will try that.Regarding the hide I’ve tried this in the past and he just buries himself in the substrate.
Thks
Thks
Re: Hermann help please
That is completely natural behaviour for his size. Wild tortoises would do exactly the same when small. In the wild they would come out to eat and then hide from predators.
Just try the food one for one day and if this makes a difference then adjust your feeding amounts. But to me you animal sounds healthy.
Just try the food one for one day and if this makes a difference then adjust your feeding amounts. But to me you animal sounds healthy.
Re: Hermann help please
Daniel wrote:
> There is a couple of things you could try, to make your little tortoise
> more active.
>
> 1, remove the hide at the warmer end of the enclosure, as this is probably
> making him a nice little warm hide, why would he want to move out of that.
> It like trying to get a teenager out of a nice warm bed on a cold winters
> day.
>
> 2, don't feed him for just one day and see if he becomes more active. At
> this small size it's hard not to over feed them. If over fed they tend to
> sleep it off for the day.
>
> I have a Herman's tortoise that is around 15 years old. When I watch her in
> the garden, she is very active after around an hour of warming up under the
> hot morning sun, then she will go exploring and then have something to eat
> and then go back to her cold frame for a rest for most of the day. Once the
> late afternoon comes, and when it's not as hot, then she will go and repeat
> the same cycle as the morning, but without the warm up. I would say that
> her activities and feeding is about 4 to 5 hours a day in total, but she is
> very healthy and extremely strong and a very heavy.
>
> Don't worry about moving the hide from the warm end, as the tortoise will
> go and bask under the lamp as needed. These animals don't need to sit near
> a heat source all day long. But the heat and light source must remain on
> for the length of the day, so the animal can make their own choices when
> needed.
Just a bit of an update.Yesterday I removed his food for the day.He was up at 11am for about 2 hours then off to the warm hide till the morning.I did notice he moved to the cool hide at some time..So late last night I completely removed the warm hide.This morning he was out at 7.30am eat his food and was very very active and alert.Its now 3.pm and his still out!.Today’s his a completely different tortoise.I noticed that his basking but on the outskirts of the main heat of the lamp.Maybe guessing that his not a fan of the heat?.A complete and pleasant surprise.I will see what tomorrow brings.I will also be changing his substrate to top soil and play sand mix when it drys out.
Thanks everyone.
> There is a couple of things you could try, to make your little tortoise
> more active.
>
> 1, remove the hide at the warmer end of the enclosure, as this is probably
> making him a nice little warm hide, why would he want to move out of that.
> It like trying to get a teenager out of a nice warm bed on a cold winters
> day.
>
> 2, don't feed him for just one day and see if he becomes more active. At
> this small size it's hard not to over feed them. If over fed they tend to
> sleep it off for the day.
>
> I have a Herman's tortoise that is around 15 years old. When I watch her in
> the garden, she is very active after around an hour of warming up under the
> hot morning sun, then she will go exploring and then have something to eat
> and then go back to her cold frame for a rest for most of the day. Once the
> late afternoon comes, and when it's not as hot, then she will go and repeat
> the same cycle as the morning, but without the warm up. I would say that
> her activities and feeding is about 4 to 5 hours a day in total, but she is
> very healthy and extremely strong and a very heavy.
>
> Don't worry about moving the hide from the warm end, as the tortoise will
> go and bask under the lamp as needed. These animals don't need to sit near
> a heat source all day long. But the heat and light source must remain on
> for the length of the day, so the animal can make their own choices when
> needed.
Just a bit of an update.Yesterday I removed his food for the day.He was up at 11am for about 2 hours then off to the warm hide till the morning.I did notice he moved to the cool hide at some time..So late last night I completely removed the warm hide.This morning he was out at 7.30am eat his food and was very very active and alert.Its now 3.pm and his still out!.Today’s his a completely different tortoise.I noticed that his basking but on the outskirts of the main heat of the lamp.Maybe guessing that his not a fan of the heat?.A complete and pleasant surprise.I will see what tomorrow brings.I will also be changing his substrate to top soil and play sand mix when it drys out.
Thanks everyone.
Re: Hermann help please
That is great news, and many thanks to Daniel for the tip about removing the hide at the warm end -- very good advice!
Nina
Nina
Re: Hermann help please
Nina wrote:
> That is great news, and many thanks to Daniel for the tip about removing
> the hide at the warm end -- very good advice!
>
> Nina
It’s such a simple adjustment.Its only day one but I’ve never seen him so active for so long.Nina it’s still baffling me do you think it could be heat related?.
Many Thks.
> That is great news, and many thanks to Daniel for the tip about removing
> the hide at the warm end -- very good advice!
>
> Nina
It’s such a simple adjustment.Its only day one but I’ve never seen him so active for so long.Nina it’s still baffling me do you think it could be heat related?.
Many Thks.
Re: Hermann help please
I'm not sure, but it could well be what Daniel said -- that he was so comfy in that nice warm hide at the warm end that he didn't want to roam around. Having said that, I have hides at the warm end and the cool ends of my table and mine choose them at random, and when it isn't this time of year (they are in hibernation mode now), they do emerge from their hides at either end and go searching for food every day. But yours is very young and that might be a factor.
Nina
Nina
Re: Hermann help please
Really pleased for you and Dave. I hope he has been very active again today. Glad to hear that you're changing his substrate over to topsoil and play sand. Also add some large flat pebbles around the water dish (but make sure they can't be eaten around 70mm is a good size) as it helps to keep the water a bit cleaner, and builds the leg muscles up and keeps a bit of wear on the toe nails too. But don't place them near the heat source as they will get very hot.
Re: Hermann help please
Daniel wrote:
> Really pleased for you and Dave. I hope he has been very active again
> today. Glad to hear that you're changing his substrate over to topsoil and
> play sand. Also add some large flat pebbles around the water dish (but make
> sure they can't be eaten around 70mm is a good size) as it helps to keep
> the water a bit cleaner, and builds the leg muscles up and keeps a bit of
> wear on the toe nails too. But don't place them near the heat source as
> they will get very hot.
Thks for excellent advice Daniel.Your correct his been very active today from 7.30 am to 3.30 pm.When he appeared this morning he
went back into his hide so l helped a bit by moving him to warmer spot.I noticed when he went to bed he buried himself at warm end.Any more tips will always be welcome.
Thks.
> Really pleased for you and Dave. I hope he has been very active again
> today. Glad to hear that you're changing his substrate over to topsoil and
> play sand. Also add some large flat pebbles around the water dish (but make
> sure they can't be eaten around 70mm is a good size) as it helps to keep
> the water a bit cleaner, and builds the leg muscles up and keeps a bit of
> wear on the toe nails too. But don't place them near the heat source as
> they will get very hot.
Thks for excellent advice Daniel.Your correct his been very active today from 7.30 am to 3.30 pm.When he appeared this morning he
went back into his hide so l helped a bit by moving him to warmer spot.I noticed when he went to bed he buried himself at warm end.Any more tips will always be welcome.
Thks.
Re: Hermann help please
If he goes to sleep at the warm end, just leave him there for the night. When it comes to the morning just let him do as he needs.
I personally feed mine first thing when indoors and she will eat her food and then go and warm up under the heat source after her food. But her behaviour is completely different when outside in the warmer months.
I think we all probably worry about our animals to much and what we forget is tortoises are not domesticated in anyway. They are more than capable of looking after themselves and even though they have been bred in captivity they are well and truly still having strong connections to the wild. All we have to do is manage their diet and husbandry and look out for signs of illness, other than that just let them be.
I personally feed mine first thing when indoors and she will eat her food and then go and warm up under the heat source after her food. But her behaviour is completely different when outside in the warmer months.
I think we all probably worry about our animals to much and what we forget is tortoises are not domesticated in anyway. They are more than capable of looking after themselves and even though they have been bred in captivity they are well and truly still having strong connections to the wild. All we have to do is manage their diet and husbandry and look out for signs of illness, other than that just let them be.
Re: Hermann help please
Reggie has now changed the substrate in Dave's enclosure and rearranged the 'furniture', and I think it looks great. Here are some photos of Dave's new kingdom that Reggie sent to me to reduce in size and post, and I think he is one lucky tortoise to have such a caring and commited keeper.
Nina
[attachment=2]m_IMG_0155.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]m_IMG_0156.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]m_IMG_0157.jpg[/attachment]
Nina
[attachment=2]m_IMG_0155.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]m_IMG_0156.jpg[/attachment][attachment=0]m_IMG_0157.jpg[/attachment]
- Attachments
-
-
-
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests